View Full Version : Water Heater replacement - flexpipe ok? Other considerations?



SoonerDave
02-02-2019, 08:14 AM
I'm getting ready to replace my 20-year-old water heater, and was wondering if there are any OKC code regulations against using flexpipe from the NG source to the control box?

It looks like I should be able to reuse the copper flex tubing for the water lines themselves, so I don't expect much of a problem in putting in a similar-size replacement...

Any other not-so-obvious caveats before I dive in? It seems a pretty straightforward job....I've just not done one.

Thanks

Bellaboo
02-02-2019, 09:01 AM
They are heavy and a bear to move around, otherwise if you have cutoff valves on your water lines you should be in pretty good shape.

mkjeeves
02-02-2019, 09:12 AM
I'd suggest if you have a couple of flex fittings connecting the tank you replace those at the same time. They are as old as the tank right?

My last remodel I had a plumber refit a new sink in the bathroom. He replaced one flex line to the faucet. Reused the other one. It wasn't up to being moved around and reconnected. It blew a couple of days later and flooded the house. Less than $10 part turned into a big expense.

That again confirmed my experience with plumping, reuse as little as possible.

rezman
02-02-2019, 09:35 AM
I’ve done several hot water tanks my self over the years, and the only real issue I had was a height difference between the old tanks and the new ones. That involved some reconfiguring of the water lines and vent pipe. Nothing major or hard to over come, just added some extra time and copper fittings.

I made sure the tanks were on an 18” pedestal and in a catch pan plumbed to the drain. I also always installed new ball valves on the water lines above the tanks even if there were no valves before. All had a flex line in place before I started, so I replaced them with a new flex line and shut off valve.

This may have not been exactly to code, but each time worked well.

SoonerDave
02-03-2019, 05:32 AM
Thanks for the responses - BTW, has OKC changed any codes in the last few years requiring expansion tanks along with new HW heater installs? I haven't seen any within new construction I've snooped....

rezman
02-03-2019, 08:06 AM
^ That’s a good question. When we had our home on the acreage built in 2011, no expansion tank was required but they did install water arresters , or anti-hammer valves above the hot water tank. I’m not sure if those were required or not. The home was in the far eastern part of the county, but still in Okc city.

MadMonk
02-04-2019, 08:12 AM
Do you already have a gas line sediment trap/drip leg? When I replaced a water heater at my old home, I didn't have one. The inspector was very helpful and showed me what was required. Passed inspection a couple days later at no extra charge.

SoonerDave
02-05-2019, 09:19 AM
Yup...already planning to add a sediment trap.

OKCRT
02-05-2019, 09:23 AM
Yup...already planning to add a sediment trap.

Have you thought about a tankless water heater? Those are becoming popular and think that is the way I will go in the near future. A little more on the initial install but should pay back in time. Unless you have teenage daughters that like to take 2 hr. hot showers.

SoonerDave
02-05-2019, 11:13 AM
Have you thought about a tankless water heater? Those are becoming popular and think that is the way I will go in the near future. A little more on the initial install but should pay back in time. Unless you have teenage daughters that like to take 2 hr. hot showers.

I have tracked tankless heaters for a time, love the idea, but even now they just don't make financial sense for existing construction. If you're building new, it's a great option. A friend of mine did the tankless when he built his house, and agreed with that assessment - it was good for a new build, but retrofit will almost never get the payback. IIRC, a tankless sytem still runs about $3,000, and most require a water softener....

SoonerDave
02-06-2019, 04:42 AM
Something surprising I read while researching updated building codes....apparently, with the advent of fuel-vapor-ignition-resistant (FVIR) gas water heaters, such heaters no longer need to be elevated such that their burners are 18 inches above ground when installed in a garage.

This is in the International Residential Building Code from 2009, which is what the city of OKC incorporates into their own codes by reference.

FVIR water heaters essentially have a segregated burner that prevents the flame from escaping and potentially igniting nearby vaporized fuel sources...

mkjeeves
02-06-2019, 06:09 AM
I have tracked tankless heaters for a time, love the idea, but even now they just don't make financial sense for existing construction. If you're building new, it's a great option. A friend of mine did the tankless when he built his house, and agreed with that assessment - it was good for a new build, but retrofit will almost never get the payback. IIRC, a tankless sytem still runs about $3,000, and most require a water softener....

I'm thinking about putting instant heaters at the sinks in my bathrooms. It drives me crazy how long I have to run water to get hot water at those locations. I installed some in at my workplace to replace small 6 gallon tanks and they work fine. 40 amp 240 volt circuit required to each IIRC. My electric panel isn't too far away.

SoonerDave
02-13-2019, 05:50 AM
Just thought I'd put a bow on this thread...I installed a new 50-gallon heater with a proper sediment trap with very little trouble....had my son to help with the brawn part!! It became a fun father-son project, too...he got into making sure the connections to the tank weren't leaking ��.

Thanks to all for your help and taking the time to reply.