I'm trying to figure out if one of the categories is correct. On the "My Neighborhood" tab, the last section shows the baseload use for the previous billing period. My report shows my baseline is 15% of the efficient number and 8% of the average. I've made quite a bit of effort to reduce my electricity usage but this seems a little hard to believe.

What does yours show?

I'm also getting similar results.
$10/189W is my baseload
599W is efficient, 1111W is average.

Total KWH was 877 for September @ $77
1071kwh/$101 is efficient, and 1610kwh/$144 is average.
These numbers don’t have as much 'spread' as my baseload use vs. efficient/average.

Factors entered into the survey to determine Average/Efficient numbers:
1: 1600sqft house size
2: 1999 house age.
3: 4 people living in house
The numbers you entered when you signed up for myogepower will determine what efficient and average is.

Mine is 302w, efficient 335w, average 791w.

I tend to frequently fall in the invisible ink category of dayum son, how many fans you running at full blast over there?

After spending nearly a year trying to rationalize the MyOGEPower data, I gave up. I can marginally rationalize my home usage being somewhat above average, and I've even done some measurements, but getting down to the "efficient" level doesn't even make sense. And the *amount* above average is something I frankly don't believe or believe something is causing the calculations to be skewed in some non-obvious way.

The biggest component is A/C use, and every calculation I've done so far tells me that while a new AC might be more efficient, the amount saved each month would take years to pay off. Some extra insulation will help some, but not much, in the summer months,

I do miss Oklahoma but I DO love the power of choice in Texas when it comes to energy providers. The plan and company that we have chosen has allowed my energy bill for a 1,700 SQFT house to drop to $25 for last month....and yes we still used our A/C unit.

AMAZING.

(disclaimer: right before we bought our house, the previous owners put in new insulation...the A/C unit is also a hyper-efficient variable speed unit)

How are your levels in WINTER when AC isn't a factor?
If the AC is the issue, make sure it's at least operating at it's full potential. Clean coils and proper charge go a long way towards reducing energy consumption w/o the expense of a new system. Many systems are short on airflow, fixing ductwork can have a decent payback time.

How are your levels in WINTER when AC isn't a factor?
If the AC is the issue, make sure it's at least operating at it's full potential. Clean coils and proper charge go a long way towards reducing energy consumption w/o the expense of a new system. Many systems are short on airflow, fixing ductwork can have a decent payback time.

Tech that came out a couple of years ago said inflow was an issue, suggested a custom-cut enlarged intake vent, but for some reason what he suggested was going to be very expensive - wasn't just like adding a stock duct for some reason. He didn't even send me an estimate, said it was "more than a new system."

The place I'd put an intake is my living room. I'd move two poorly place vents (imho) that are presently in the middle of the LR over by the windows on the south side, then put an intake vent on the extreme NE corner of the room (which is about 18x20). Not ideal, but I think it would help the supply problem.

One thing's for sure: Whenever the time comes for a new unit, whomever sells it is going to have to do a proper load calc on the house and suggest proper ducting as part of the job..

Tech that came out a couple of years ago said inflow was an issue, suggested a custom-cut enlarged intake vent, but for some reason what he suggested was going to be very expensive - wasn't just like adding a stock duct for some reason. He didn't even send me an estimate, said it was "more than a new system."

The place I'd put an intake is my living room. I'd move two poorly place vents (imho) that are presently in the middle of the LR over by the windows on the south side, then put an intake vent on the extreme NE corner of the room (which is about 18x20). Not ideal, but I think it would help the supply problem.

One thing's for sure: Whenever the time comes for a new unit, whomever sells it is going to have to do a proper load calc on the house and suggest proper ducting as part of the job..

Keep in mind a smaller system requires less ductwork. Your ductwork may be too small for your current system,but be plenty for a larger system. My current ductwork is large enough for a 2.5 ton system, and I had a 3 ton. Downsized the system to 2 tons, it lowered by cooling costs about 25% and removes humidity MUCH better than the larger system.

Keep in mind a smaller system requires less ductwork. Your ductwork may be too small for your current system,but be plenty for a larger system. My current ductwork is large enough for a 2.5 ton system, and I had a 3 ton. Downsized the system to 2 tons, it lowered by cooling costs about 25% and removes humidity MUCH better than the larger system.

When the kids were younger, we had a couple of fish in a medium-sized tank in what we use as a game room. We had such good humidity removal Ihad to add a good half-gallon of water to that thing about every week LOL