View Full Version : Recommended Heat/Air service companies in the metro?



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s00nr1
06-24-2013, 02:20 PM
Anyone have a metro HVAC company they would recommend to do an annual service/checkup on our residential system? I happened to notice our overflow condensation drain had some water draining through and I guess that's a good sign the system needs to be serviced.

OKCisOK4me
06-24-2013, 02:26 PM
Mechanical Concepts. They're located one block south of NW 39th St. and one block west of Meridian. Their service has always been top notch.

kevinpate
06-24-2013, 03:45 PM
I do not know if takes projects outside Cleveland County, but he's good:

John Kelso
Kelso Heating and Air
329-7755
Kelso Heating and Air Conditioning, Inc. / Norman (http://kelsoheatair.ruuddealer.net)

WilliamTell
06-24-2013, 03:57 PM
I have a ruud/rheem and have been treated extremely well by EJ Heating and Air.

https://plus.google.com/113495676876898986620/about?gl=us&hl=en

They fixed an issues that Air Comfort Solutions and Quality Air had no idea how to fix besides charging me money for stuff i didnt need (in the $400-600 range). Word to the wise, look for someone who specializes with your brand. I wasted hundreds of dollars on service calls on techs who didnt know what they were doing.

Larry OKC
07-02-2013, 03:43 PM
Need to know of a place that will come to you to service/clean a window unit. The places I have called say they will clean them but you have to bring the unit to them. Not an option.

Jon27
07-02-2013, 07:48 PM
I have a ruud/rheem and have been treated extremely well by EJ Heating and Air.

https://plus.google.com/113495676876898986620/about?gl=us&hl=en

They fixed an issues that Air Comfort Solutions and Quality Air had no idea how to fix besides charging me money for stuff i didnt need (in the $400-600 range). Word to the wise, look for someone who specializes with your brand. I wasted hundreds of dollars on service calls on techs who didnt know what they were doing.

I second the recommendation on EJ's. Our builder used them to install our heat and air last year. We were having problems with air flow in one of our rooms. They came out quickly after I called them. The guys that came out were extremely friendly and professional. They reminded me of the time left on my warranty, and said to call them anytime if we run into anymore problems. I normally use Draebek and Hill, but I was so impressed that I think I'll be calling them even after the warranty is up.

PennyQuilts
07-02-2013, 07:55 PM
Hicks has been good for us.

We are about to replace one of our units. It is near the end of its lifespan and will need to be done before too long. We want to do it on our schedule rather than the hottest day of the year when it decides to die. Any thoughts of a good brand/company? They're actually coming out next week to show us what they install.

Servicetech571
07-03-2013, 07:51 PM
Brand doesn't matter nearly as much as the quality of the install. Be sure they check the ductwork also, make sure the air you pay for makes it into the house :)
Many systems can be downsized if the house/ductwork is tightened up. Furnaces are almost always rediculously oversized resulting in large tempature swings in the winter.
Have yor contractor do an accurate load calculation instead of saying "500sqft per ton" or somethign similiar. 500sqft per ton may be fine for homes built pre 1970, but newer homes don't need as much cooling/heat.

OKCRT
07-03-2013, 08:16 PM
Brand doesn't matter nearly as much as the quality of the install. Be sure they check the ductwork also, make sure the air you pay for makes it into the house :)
Many systems can be downsized if the house/ductwork is tightened up. Furnaces are almost always rediculously oversized resulting in large tempature swings in the winter.
Have yor contractor do an accurate load calculation instead of saying "500sqft per ton" or somethign similiar. 500sqft per ton may be fine for homes built pre 1970, but newer homes don't need as much cooling/heat.

Got a good buy on a new(2012) 96%60k furnace. Do you think that would handle 1450 sqr ft. brick home with double windows and decent insulation? Also thinking about putting a new 3ton cond/acoil in at same time. I know the book says lower on the air but with these 105 degree summers we have been having I figure 3ton wouldn't be much oversized.
Thoughts?

SoonerQueen
07-03-2013, 11:22 PM
Tony's Heating & Air Conditioning
9101 Henley Ave
Oklahoma City, OK 73131-4013

Local:
(405) 478-1778
Tony does great work at a fair price. I think you would be most happy with his work. Give him a call.

Celebrator
07-03-2013, 11:27 PM
Sooner Queen recommended Tony's to me a few years ago and we've been using him ever since. He does our twice yearly service and he has done an install for us as well. He is great.

Servicetech571
07-04-2013, 07:38 AM
Got a good buy on a new(2012) 96%60k furnace. Do you think that would handle 1450 sqr ft. brick home with double windows and decent insulation? Also thinking about putting a new 3ton cond/acoil in at same time. I know the book says lower on the air but with these 105 degree summers we have been having I figure 3ton wouldn't be much oversized.
Thoughts?

My house is 1600sqft and I have a 2 ton AC, it will keep 75 inside on a 100 degree day. I'll live with 78-80f inside on the rare/record 110f days in order to be more comfortable the other 95% of the time. Walking into a 80 degree house on a 110f day feels pretty good :cool: Smaller units have longer cycles resulting in more even tempatures. Oversizing results in constantly fiddling with the thermostat because it's either running and too cold, or off and too hot. http://acrightsize.com/files/elephant_in_the_room.pdf

Furnaces are frequently oversized, normally 2-3 times the size needed. A 60k furnace is good for about 3000sqft in Oklahoma provided it has decent insulation and air sealing. Larger furnaces don't cost much more so it's cheap insurance for the contractor to protect against not enough heat complaints. They aren't paying the utility bills after all. The 96% you bought may be a 2 stage, I doubt the 2nd stage will ever operate in your 1450sqft house.

In order to actually GET the rated AFUE and SEER numbers the unit must be sized correctly. If it's oversized it won't run long enough on each cycle to get it's rated efficiency. Most units take 5-10 minutes before they reach thier maximum efficiency, ever notice that it takes a few minutes after the unit kicks on for the air to get good and warm/cold? The ductwork in most homes is either leaky and/or undersized. Going to a smaller unit will be a closer match to the existing ductwork, although any leaks will still need to be addressed.

BTW my electric bill was $68 last month, smaller units really do save money...
3921

OKCRT
07-04-2013, 12:43 PM
My house is 1600sqft and I have a 2 ton AC, it will keep 75 inside on a 100 degree day. I'll live with 78-80f inside on the rare/record 110f days in order to be more comfortable the other 95% of the time. Walking into a 80 degree house on a 110f day feels pretty good :cool: Smaller units have longer cycles resulting in more even tempatures. Oversizing results in constantly fiddling with the thermostat because it's either running and too cold, or off and too hot. http://acrightsize.com/files/elephant_in_the_room.pdf

Furnaces are frequently oversized, normally 2-3 times the size needed. A 60k furnace is good for about 3000sqft in Oklahoma provided it has decent insulation and air sealing. Larger furnaces don't cost much more so it's cheap insurance for the contractor to protect against not enough heat complaints. They aren't paying the utility bills after all. The 96% you bought may be a 2 stage, I doubt the 2nd stage will ever operate in your 1450sqft house.

In order to actually GET the rated AFUE and SEER numbers the unit must be sized correctly. If it's oversized it won't run long enough on each cycle to get it's rated efficiency. Most units take 5-10 minutes before they reach thier maximum efficiency, ever notice that it takes a few minutes after the unit kicks on for the air to get good and warm/cold? The ductwork in most homes is either leaky and/or undersized. Going to a smaller unit will be a closer match to the existing ductwork, although any leaks will still need to be addressed.

BTW my electric bill was $68 last month, smaller units really do save money...
3921

Thanks,I may drop down to a 2 or 2 1/2 ton unit when I do the install. The furnace is a 2 stage BTW.

Servicetech571
07-04-2013, 04:47 PM
Thanks,I may drop down to a 2 or 2 1/2 ton unit when I do the install. The furnace is a 2 stage BTW.

If a 2 ton will do 1600sqft, it should do 1450sqft. My house is average insulation for 1999, ductwork is tight though.
I did the 2 ton thinking if it wasn't enough then the house needed to be insulated and/or tightened up some more. I'm not installing a larger unit to cover up leakage in the house.
Does it buck the norm of 500sqft per ton that has been used since the 60's? yup. Does it save big on power bills? You betcha.

bhawes
07-04-2013, 07:26 PM
I have 2350 sf house that I had build in 2001 and last year I changed out a 4 ton heat pump and 80% furnace with a two stage 4 ton ac and a two speed 95% furnace. I will leave my temp at 77 or 78. But my wife likes to keep temperature between 72-75.

Servicetech571
07-05-2013, 07:21 AM
I have 2350 sf house that I had build in 2001 and last year I changed out a 4 ton heat pump and 80% furnace with a two stage 4 ton ac and a two speed 95% furnace. I will leave my temp at 77 or 78. But my wife likes to keep temperature between 72-75.

Does the 2nd stage ever kick on unless you turn the thermostat up/down?

Rover
07-05-2013, 09:44 AM
Staging is usually a matter of an algorithm which uses the set point and the degrees away from set point the environment is. However, to keep changing the thermostat up and down to fool the thermostat defeats the real purpose and efficiency of the unit. Staging is really for adjusting for load extremes and not for changing preferences.

bhawes
07-05-2013, 10:45 AM
Does the 2nd stage ever kick on unless you turn the thermostat up/down?

I was told that the ac operates in low speed and will kick on high speed when temp is close to or over a 100.

Rover
07-05-2013, 11:09 AM
It isn't the temperature difference outside but the temperature inside. However, the two generally coincide as the outdoor temp and heat infiltration dictate the load.

Servicetech571
07-06-2013, 06:39 AM
I was told that the ac operates in low speed and will kick on high speed when temp is close to or over a 100.

Looks like they did the typical size the unit based on stage 1 and use stage 2 as reserve. It runs at about 2.5 tons up until 100, then goes into 4 ton high stage (most systems run @ 2/3 capacity on low).
A 2.5 ton single stage 15/16 SEER would have resulted in lower power bills than you have now. You basically paid double the price for your system just so your AC won't loose ground on those 100F+ days (which we haven't had yet this year).

On the heat side does stage 2 every kick in?

Servicetech571
07-06-2013, 06:42 AM
Staging is usually a matter of an algorithm which uses the set point and the degrees away from set point the environment is. However, to keep changing the thermostat up and down to fool the thermostat defeats the real purpose and efficiency of the unit. Staging is really for adjusting for load extremes and not for changing preferences.

That was my point. If the thermostat ISN'T messed with, will stage 2 ever actually run? On the heat side I've never seen it happen since 1st stage is always more than enough to handle the load.

bhawes
07-06-2013, 09:58 AM
Looks like they did the typical size the unit based on stage 1 and use stage 2 as reserve. It runs at about 2.5 tons up until 100, then goes into 4 ton high stage (most systems run @ 2/3 capacity on low).
A 2.5 ton single stage 15/16 SEER would have resulted in lower power bills than you have now. You basically paid double the price for your system just so your AC won't loose ground on those 100F+ days (which we haven't had yet this year).

On the heat side does stage 2 every kick in?

I have a 18 seer unit.

bhawes
07-06-2013, 10:12 AM
Looks like they did the typical size the unit based on stage 1 and use stage 2 as reserve. It runs at about 2.5 tons up until 100, then goes into 4 ton high stage (most systems run @ 2/3 capacity on low).
A 2.5 ton single stage 15/16 SEER would have resulted in lower power bills than you have now. You basically paid double the price for your system just so your AC won't loose ground on those 100F+ days (which we haven't had yet this year).

On the heat side does stage 2 every kick in?

No I got a good deal All the companies I called want to charge at least 11800.00 and higher. I had a guy name Keith that used to work for a major compainy in OKC area he has his own business and he only charge me 7700.00 and all the equipment cost about 6500.00.

Servicetech571
07-06-2013, 10:51 AM
I have a 18 seer unit.

Keep in mind SEER rating assumes "wide open" operation during design conditions, and loosing ground above design conditions.
High SEER ratings are obtained by reduced cycling losses which you don't get if your unit is oversized.
How much did your power bill go down when you got your new AC installed? How big was your old AC?

Servicetech571
07-06-2013, 10:55 AM
No I got a good deal All the companies I called want to charge at least 11800.00 and higher. I had a guy name Keith that used to work for a major compainy in OKC area he has his own business and he only charge me 7700.00 and all the equipment cost about 6500.00.

$12k for an HVAC system is just nuts, it will never pay for itself in energy savings. A 14-16SEER single stage normally runs about $6k installed.
Having a guy do the work for less is great as long as it's done right.

BBatesokc
07-06-2013, 11:38 AM
Just an FYI - We've had two negative heat and air experiences over the years.

The most recent one was with Advanced Air Specialists. As I posted to AngiesList.... "2010 furnace initially installed by Advanced was not working properly.... Furnace would fire up and then shut down 10-15 minutes later.
Called to get warranty information (parts still under warranty, labor not). Tech sent out on what was described as a "tune up and diagnostic" call. The initial tech misdiagnosed the problem causing the furnace to shut down and missed several items that should have been caught during the tune-up. System failed again. Same tech came back and misdiagnosed a second time. System failed again. A different tech was sent out. This tech identified one problem but because it was too late in the day, could not address it until the following Monday. Later found out that his diagnosis would not have fixed the problem either and I would have been out $324 at least. Resulting in being without heat an entire weekend with freezing temperatures outside.
Ended up hiring a different company (Airgo) through my homeowner's warranty who came out, correctly identified the problem(s) and fixed the unit.

Prior to that I hired Hinton Refrigeration and they took three visits and a misdiagnosis to fix what ended up just being a blown capacitor on my AC unit.

Servicetech571
07-06-2013, 12:07 PM
Furnace shutting down after 10 minutes is often caused by low airflow. The furnace shuts off on the high limit safety switch after it overheats. If the thermostat is digital powered by the system (no AA's installed) it will often go blank once furnace hits high limit. Primary causes are dirty air filter, clogged A-coil/Blower, ductwork too small for furnace. Some techs cover up DIrty A-coil/Bad Ductwork by installing a limit switch with a higher tempature cutoff. This leads to cracked heat exchangers.

BBatesokc
07-06-2013, 12:19 PM
Furnace shutting down after 10 minutes is often caused by low airflow. The furnace shuts off on the high limit safety switch after it overheats. If the thermostat is digital powered by the system (no AA's installed) it will often go blank once furnace hits high limit. Primary causes are dirty air filter, clogged A-coil/Blower, ductwork too small for furnace. Some techs cover up DIrty A-coil/Bad Ductwork by installing a limit switch with a higher tempature cutoff. This leads to cracked heat exchangers.

I believe AirGo spotted two issues - one was a leaking inducer (I think that's what they called it) and replaced it.

The second (and what was apparently shutting the system down) was the initial installation of two water traps. He bypassed one of the traps and the furnace started working fine ever since.

Servicetech571
07-06-2013, 01:06 PM
I believe AirGo spotted two issues - one was a leaking inducer (I think that's what they called it) and replaced it.

The second (and what was apparently shutting the system down) was the initial installation of two water traps. He bypassed one of the traps and the furnace started working fine ever since.

Sounds like you have a 90%+ condensing furnace. If the inducer fills up with water it will shut it down for sure..
I'm surprised the first company that looked at it couldn't hear the water sloshing around when the furnace tried to start up.

bhawes
07-06-2013, 03:36 PM
Keep in mind SEER rating assumes "wide open" operation during design conditions, and loosing ground above design conditions.
High SEER ratings are obtained by reduced cycling losses which you don't get if your unit is oversized.
How much did your power bill go down when you got your new AC installed? How big was your old AC?

My old system was a 13 seer 4 ton heat pump with a 80% furnace my bill was about 160 dollars now I pay about 92 a month if wife leave stat at 77-78 but she likes to turn it down to about 72-74 when I'm not around

bhawes
07-06-2013, 03:39 PM
I was told that the ac operates in low speed and will kick on high speed when temp is close to or over a 100.

I talk to my ac installer he told me that the second stage comes on if temp outside is over 95 and only if low stage is having a problem getting to the desire temp.

bhawes
07-06-2013, 03:43 PM
$12k for an HVAC system is just nuts, it will never pay for itself in energy savings. A 14-16SEER single stage normally runs about $6k installed.
Having a guy do the work for less is great as long as it's done right.

I have the top of the line Goodman unit and I thought that 12000 was insane so I know 7700 was a fair price. about 4000 cheaper than the next installer. The price also included a two stage 95% 90000 BTU furnace.

Servicetech571
07-06-2013, 07:59 PM
My old system was a 13 seer 4 ton heat pump with a 80% furnace my bill was about 160 dollars now I pay about 92 a month if wife leave stat at 77-78 but she likes to turn it down to about 72-74 when I'm not around

If your summer bill is only $92, 4 tons is WAY oversized. If you really needed 4 tons your sumer bill would be $200+.

Servicetech571
07-06-2013, 08:02 PM
I have the top of the line Goodman unit and I thought that 12000 was insane so I know 7700 was a fair price. about 4000 cheaper than the next installer. The price also included a two stage 95% 90000 BTU furnace.

90,000BTU furance? Yeah, you'll never see stage 2 ever kick in on that one.
Typical 2X-3X oklahoma sizing.

bhawes
07-06-2013, 08:12 PM
If your summer bill is only $92, 4 tons is WAY oversized. If you really needed 4 tons your sumer bill would be $200+.

My builder had a load calculation done and was told that the house needed a 4 ton unit. However all the new homes I seen being build at 2300 sf or more have the same two returns and 4 ton units. my father in law home is 1200sf and he just had a 2.5 ton install on a house that was build in the 70.

Servicetech571
07-06-2013, 09:02 PM
My builder had a load calculation done and was told that the house needed a 4 ton unit. However all the new homes I seen being build at 2300 sf or more have the same two returns and 4 ton units. my father in law home is 1200sf and he just had a 2.5 ton install on a house that was build in the 70.

Typical 1 ton per 500sqft sizing. Load calculation inputs are fudged so the computer program for Man J gives the results the contractor has been installing for decades.
Think about it, contractors have been using 500sqft per ton rule since the 60's. You don't think a 1990+ house is at least twice as well insulated than a house built in the 60's?
Contractors put 500sqft per ton in both homes, what gives?

http://acrightsize.com/files/10_reasons_why_oversizing_persists.pdf
http://acrightsize.com/files/7_reasons_why_oversizing_is_a_bad_idea.pdf

bhawes
07-07-2013, 08:47 AM
Typical 1 ton per 500sqft sizing. Load calculation inputs are fudged so the computer program for Man J gives the results the contractor has been installing for decades.
Think about it, contractors have been using 500sqft per ton rule since the 60's. You don't think a 1990+ house is at least twice as well insulated than a house built in the 60's?
Contractors put 500sqft per ton in both homes, what gives?

http://acrightsize.com/files/10_reasons_why_oversizing_persists.pdf
http://acrightsize.com/files/7_reasons_why_oversizing_is_a_bad_idea.pdf


So what should humidity be set to on the thermostat.

Servicetech571
07-07-2013, 08:05 PM
So what should humidity be set to on the thermostat.

About 50% works for most people.

ctchandler
07-09-2013, 11:54 AM
St571,
I set my humidistat to 35% for most of our winter. It's the recommended setting for a temperatures above 20 degrees. Why do you say 50%? My Aprilaire maximum is 50%.
Thanks,
C. T.

About 50% works for most people.

Servicetech571
07-10-2013, 06:12 AM
St571,
I set my humidistat to 35% for most of our winter. It's the recommended setting for a temperatures above 20 degrees. Why do you say 50%? My Aprilaire maximum is 50%.
Thanks,
C. T.

50% is a good summer setting, 35% is good for winter.

PennyQuilts
07-10-2013, 08:07 AM
Currently, we have two 2.5 and are replacing them with two 3.0, 13 seer with an 82% furnace (furnace the same size as now). The house was built in 1995 and is actually pretty comfortable, most of the time, but the AC doesn't want to stop on really hot days. I think they ball parked the cooled/heated area as about 2300 sq. feet. Maybe 2400. The guy we talked to really didn't think we needed to get a lot bigger units and seemed to think getting a 16 seer or above was dumb. Thoughts?

Is it worth it to get a humidifier? We had one in Virginia but, candidly, it was a pain and kept getting clogged.

ctchandler
07-10-2013, 08:59 AM
St571,
Ok, how do you do that? My humidifier only works when the heat comes on. Am I missing out on some new technology in the heat/air world? Traditional thinking when I purchased my first Aprilaire in the early 70's was that you didn't need more moisture in the summer, just the winter. Currently, my weather station says I have 38% inside my home and 19% outside. I may be an "old dog" but I can learn new tricks, so clue me in.
Thanks,
C. T.

50% is a good summer setting, 35% is good for winter.

ctchandler
07-10-2013, 09:11 AM
PennyQuilts,
I have never had a problem with my humidifier. My first one was a Chrysler in my previous home and my last/current one is an Aprilaire. The comfort and health advantages are in my opinion well worth the expense, and once purchased, the only cost is a grid replacement about once every year or two. Of course they use water, but I believe the cost would be negligible. Our purchases were deductible (medical) because our pediatrician prescribed one as well as an electronic air cleaner for my younger sons breathing problems. By the way, was your unit in Virginia attached to the plenum or was it a room humidifier? Mine is built in (attached to the plenum).
C. T.

Is it worth it to get a humidifier? We had one in Virginia but, candidly, it was a pain and kept getting clogged.

Larry OKC
07-10-2013, 01:09 PM
Sorry for the repeat post but didn't see a reply...

Need to know of a place that will come to you to service/clean a window unit. The places I have called say they will clean them but you have to bring the unit to them. This is a larger window unit (no side spacers needed, so removing it by myself is not an option.

PennyQuilts
07-10-2013, 06:58 PM
PennyQuilts,
I have never had a problem with my humidifier. My first one was a Chrysler in my previous home and my last/current one is an Aprilaire. The comfort and health advantages are in my opinion well worth the expense, and once purchased, the only cost is a grid replacement about once every year or two. Of course they use water, but I believe the cost would be negligible. Our purchases were deductible (medical) because our pediatrician prescribed one as well as an electronic air cleaner for my younger sons breathing problems. By the way, was your unit in Virginia attached to the plenum or was it a room humidifier? Mine is built in (attached to the plenum).
C. T.
Thanks.

Our humidifier in Virginia was built in. I have no idea what kept clogging it up but it was a pain. I may ask the AC guys to shoot us an estimate to include a humidifier. I don't think it was included in the estimate they gave us.

Servicetech571
07-11-2013, 05:08 AM
St571,
Ok, how do you do that? My humidifier only works when the heat comes on. Am I missing out on some new technology in the heat/air world? Traditional thinking when I purchased my first Aprilaire in the early 70's was that you didn't need more moisture in the summer, just the winter. Currently, my weather station says I have 38% inside my home and 19% outside. I may be an "old dog" but I can learn new tricks, so clue me in.
Thanks,
C. T.

Some systems have a dehumidify setting for summer. You definetly don't want to add humidity!!

Servicetech571
07-11-2013, 05:28 AM
Currently, we have two 2.5 and are replacing them with two 3.0, 13 seer with an 82% furnace (furnace the same size as now). The house was built in 1995 and is actually pretty comfortable, most of the time, but the AC doesn't want to stop on really hot days. I think they ball parked the cooled/heated area as about 2300 sq. feet. Maybe 2400. The guy we talked to really didn't think we needed to get a lot bigger units and seemed to think getting a 16 seer or above was dumb. Thoughts?

Is it worth it to get a humidifier? We had one in Virginia but, candidly, it was a pain and kept getting clogged.

If you are concerned with energy bills stay with the 2.5 ton. Going 3 ton will cost you about 1 SEER point in real world energy costs. Won't make a huge difference on your power bill, probably cost you 10% more to run the larger unit vs a new 2.5ton. If you do decide on the bigger unit be sure you ductwork can handle the full 1200cfm needed for a 3 ton. Sure it will work with less airflow, but it will cost you another SEER point for undersized ductwork. Most ductwork is undersized to begin with...

As for furnaces, if you are concerned about 82% vs 80% cut the furnace size in HALF. Most furnaces in Oklahoma are TWICE (or more) the size needed. A 50,000 BTU will heat 80% of oklahama homes, yet larger furnaces are often installed because they dont cost that much more. As an added bonus a smaller furnace wont dry the air out as much.

PennyQuilts
07-11-2013, 05:51 PM
Thanks. Will talk to the mister about it.

Prunepicker
07-11-2013, 07:14 PM
I've used Mr. Comfort for years and have been very pleased. I don't have
a service agreement. Paying up front what is tantamount to the 20%
discount they offer isn't very appealing. I use them because the techs
are knowledgeable. Naturally I have Midge keep an eye on them. She
knows all about HVAC, electrical, plumbing, sprinkler systems, etc...

foodiefan
07-11-2013, 08:12 PM
love me some Oklahoma Air (848-8688)!! I have been using them for almost 10 years. . .they have great service techs and are responsive to service calls. I was especially pleased with the response they gave to a friend's very elderly parents. . . there within a few hours of the service call.

ctchandler
07-15-2013, 09:33 AM
ST571,
Do you really think we need a dehumidifier in Oklahoma? It's been raining for a couple of days and it's still only 50% inside my home, and I have had the windows open for about 12 hours. I'm sure if I lived in New Orleans I would have one.
C. T.

Some systems have a dehumidify setting for summer. You definetly don't want to add humidity!!

ctchandler
07-15-2013, 09:36 AM
I seem to be off subject again, so let me say that I have been doing business with Comfort Guard for about 10 years. They installed my current system and have serviced it as well. I've never had a problem and I will continue to use them.
C. T.

Servicetech571
07-16-2013, 07:44 PM
ST571,
Do you really think we need a dehumidifier in Oklahoma? It's been raining for a couple of days and it's still only 50% inside my home, and I have had the windows open for about 12 hours. I'm sure if I lived in New Orleans I would have one.
C. T.

Put the hydrometer outside and verify accuracy when compared to local weather. It not unusual for them to be off by 20% if they havent been calibrated.

Prunepicker
07-16-2013, 11:24 PM
Put the hydrometer outside and verify accuracy when compared to local
weather. It not unusual for them to be off by 20% if they haven't been
calibrated.
Thanks. I own a few very valuable instruments, contrabasses and violins,
that require a certain amount of humidity to keep them from cracking.
Although I've not experienced any problems I need to keep my house at
around 50%.

ctchandler
07-18-2013, 11:26 AM
ST571,
I have a wireless weather system, there is a unit outside that sends the humidity, temp, and a few other things, and of course a self emptying rain gauge, and a wind sensor.
C. T.
Put the hydrometer outside and verify accuracy when compared to local weather. It not unusual for them to be off by 20% if they havent been calibrated.

Servicetech571
07-18-2013, 05:45 PM
ST571,
I have a wireless weather system, there is a unit outside that sends the humidity, temp, and a few other things, and of course a self emptying rain gauge, and a wind sensor.
C. T.

Bring the ourdoor unit inside, yiu may be shocked how far off they are. My outdoor unit read 10% lower than the indoor unit.

ctchandler
07-18-2013, 06:01 PM
ST571,
I'll do that, I realize in this high-tech world things aren't always what they seem to be. I might even take my indoor one outside, that would be easier and wouldn't that be just as good a test? I think so and it will be outside in five minutes. I will tell you how it worked out.
Thanks,
C. T.

Bring the ourdoor unit inside, yiu may be shocked how far off they are. My outdoor unit read 10% lower than the indoor unit.

Servicetech571
07-20-2013, 08:36 AM
ST571,
I'll do that, I realize in this high-tech world things aren't always what they seem to be. I might even take my indoor one outside, that would be easier and wouldn't that be just as good a test? I think so and it will be outside in five minutes. I will tell you how it worked out.
Thanks,
C. T.

Yup, same idea. How did the results turn out?

ctchandler
07-20-2013, 09:41 AM
ST571,
Mine shows 64 percent and Edmond is currently 63 percent. I think that's an acceptable difference since I live in far Northeast OKC, and not actually in Edmond. What's funny is that my outside unit is not measuring it correctly, it's showing 31 percent. I might have something set wrong. I will get it worked out. Actually, the outside humidity isn't all that important to me.
C. T.
Yup, same idea. How did the results turn out?

Servicetech571
07-21-2013, 06:42 AM
ST571,
Mine shows 64 percent and Edmond is currently 63 percent. I think that's an acceptable difference since I live in far Northeast OKC, and not actually in Edmond. What's funny is that my outside unit is not measuring it correctly, it's showing 31 percent. I might have something set wrong. I will get it worked out. Actually, the outside humidity isn't all that important to me.
C. T.

I don't think there is a way to set the digital stuff, the sensor is probably inaccurate. More common than most people think, although 30%+ off is a bit much.